Shore thing
31/1/2009 12:00:00 AM
Italian lake views, a Milan city tour and Alpine snow in St Moritz - all wrapped up in a four-star package direct from Belfast. Jane Bell cosies up with George Clooney on a winter break at Lake Como....well, a girl can dream.
Italy's beautiful Lake Como: three long, elegant legs of cool, clear water, close to the Swiss border, against a stunning backdrop of snowcapped Alps.
The Duke and Duchess of Windsor honeymooned here in the wake of the abdication crisis, in a low-lying, lakeshore, garden villa, now the holiday hideaway of maverick tycoon Richard Branson.
George Clooney recently bought a similar pad along the shore towards the compact city of Como. (Rumour has it the Oceans star hangs out at Harry's Bar of a weekend.)
Other elegant properties nearby were stunning locations in the Bond movie Casino Royale, where Daniel Craig diced with death or dallied with dollybirds.
But the really good news is that you and I can go to Lake Como too, on a package direct from Belfast, seven nights half-board in a four-star waterfront hotel, including guided day trips by luxury coach to Milan and St Moritz and a morning tour of the lake by water taxi - all for as little as £469pps. Enough to take the edge off anybody's credit crunch.
We flew Aer Lingus, direct from Belfast International Airport in a little over two hours to Milan Malpensa on The Travel Department package. Usually holiday DIYers, we appreciated the hassle-free transfers and found the mix of escorted tours and free days just right.
THE HOTEL
The four-star Grand Hotel Cadenabbia in Centre Lake is right on the lake shore road, the Via Regina (or Queensway), just across the water from the village of Bellagio, the point where the three legs of the lake meet.
Once a privately owned villa, its ensuite rooms are high ceilinged and spacious. For a supplement you can enjoy a lake view from a tiny private balcony - lovely to wake up to but note that this is a narrow, busy main road. Views are free from the large, well-appointed dining room and open terraces in good weather.
The included buffet breakfast and table d'hote dinner is good and offers enough choice to suit most tastes (the wide range of hors d'oeuvres and fresh fish dishes are excellent). Expect to pay four-star hotel prices for wine and bottled water.
Staff are friendly and helpful and, on arrival and departure, your luggage is transported to and from your room as if by magic.
LOCAL ENTERTAINMENT
In the busy season, there are plenty of bars restaurants and cafes - even a jazz boat - many with outside seating. But this was November, in the doldrums of the low season and before the Christmas/ New Year rush so all but a handful were closed. Bar Victoria, close by, was a cosy, welcome bolthole as was the stone built Vecchia Torre, a cobbled street climb away. The hotel offered a smart piano bar (rather brightly lit and lacking ambience) but, even with low guest numbers, I felt it could have provided better. Maybe a cosier room and local kid with a guitar?
DIY OUTINGS
In season, some Lake Como villas and English or Italian gardens are open to the public.
Maps of local walks are available - along with advice on avoiding the dogged local drivers on the narrow, overburdened lakeside roads.
We took our waiter's tip and climbed (more a strenuous hike, really) up to the little white church of St Martino in the steep hills behind the hotel on a clear, cold, blue-sky day for spectacular views over the waterways and snowy Alps in the distance. Two-three hours round trip.
Take a local bus to Como (little over an hour away) for the funicular railway, harbour, cathedral, some smart shops and a huge but uninspiring open air market.
Better still, take an only slightly longer bus ride in the opposite direction to Lake Lugano in Switzerland (remember to bring your passport). Good views on the journey with the pleasure of an originally planted park and relaxing wide pedestrianised walkway along the smaller Swiss lake.
Bus tickets must be bought in advance, from a small shop virtually next door to the hotel (there's a sign).
CRUISE LAKE COMO
The inclusive half-day guided water taxi trip around the Centre Lake is a great introduction to the place. A trip on the waterways is a must. If you want to do more later on your own, an all-day ferry ticket (E10.50) allows you to visit the triangle of villages Bellagio, Menaggio and Valenna, spending maybe an hour in each (but plan your journey and watch the timetables) Or give the bus a miss and pick up a hydrofoil at Como back to the hotel.
MILAN
An all-day trip by luxury coach, included. An entertaining and informative local guide takes the party on a tour of the historial centre, leaving plenty of time to do your own thing. The Castello Sforzesco at its heart was for centuries the scene of the city's political and dynastic wrangling. The great Michel Angelo lived there for 17 years, engaging in architecture, hairdressing, event organising... and even a little painting.
For a few Euro climb the 250 steps to the roof of the magnificent, newly restored Duomo (catheral) for expansive city views. Not as scary as it sounds (or take the lift).
Opera fans can visit La Scala theatre museum and step into a box in the plush red auditorium (unless there's a rehearsal in progress, which would be notified). Again, E5 well spent.
Cruise the designer shopping streets of this fashion capital or step into the past in the elaborate Galleria, which, alongside exclusive shops, houses a rare and discreet, seven-star, suites-only hotel. If, like me, you have to ask the price, you can't afford to stay there.
ST MORITZ
Our included day trip to St Moritz was a real highlight, especially since the Alps had laid on a fresh fall of snow. The slow climb (happily, by luxury coach) through the hairpin bends of the Maloja Pass was breathtaking and walking through fresh, powdery snow around the town's lake was Christmas come early. Don't forget your passport and remember that some shops take Euro but give change in Swiss Francs (your ever-helpful guide will advise).
IN SHORT
A good value, well organised trip, packed with variety and beautiful scenery. But if you want a livlier nightlife, go in season.
The Travel Department is a leading operator of escorted holidays worldwide. Packages range from popular city breaks, European touring holidays, Mediterranean cruises and long-haul packages to Asia, America and Africa. The seven night trip to Lake Como, Milan and St. Moritz is available from £469, exclusive to The Travel Department and includes direct flights with Aer Lingus from Belfast International Airport, return transfers, escorted tours with a local travel guide and four-star accommodation in the Grand Hotel Cadenabbia on half board.
- Jane Bell